![]() The main considerations here are 1) that you can actually cram all your amateur wiring into the case and 2) that it provides for easy access to your buttons and finally 3) that it can hold any display that you put in place in a secure manner that is easy to see. The other box houses the relay board, sealed lead acid battery and the "higher" voltage circuitry (12v). One case houses the Arduino and 90% of the circuitry and acts as the "brains" of the launcher. See the attached PDF or picture for the full parts list including source and cost information. ![]() Based on your design you could omit some of these or potentially add more! Overall there are 45 different component types, multiples of many of them. I didn't realize how long it was until I started typing it all out. This added to the wiring but it makes me feel plenty safe that this thing will operate for plenty of time into the future. Isolation - Given that I am using an Arduino to drive high current ignitors I wanted lots of isolation. Or, if you wanted more firing nodes you could use shift registers and more relays to crank the number up to near infinite. Likewise, if you wanted to build something with less firing nodes, you could likely step down your number of I/Os needed while maintaining a similar design. The sketch only required short of 8k so the Mega is "Mega" overkill. If I were to do this project again I could easily get up to speed on shift registers which would simplify wiring and allow me to use something more practical like an Arduino Uno. I needed a lot for this project if I wanted to stay away from input/output shift registers because I don't know much about them. I will do my best to describe everything and how it is interconnected.Īrduino - I chose to go with an Arduino Mega 2560 because of all the beautiful I/Os. Some things are just blocks of text due to Fritzing not having the components or the complexity of separate circuitry. Sorry if this is a bit long-winded, but I like to be as thorough as possible.Īttached you will see a picture that shows the general layout of the circuit as you would assemble it via a breadboard. I hope to walk you through some of my thoughts/steps that I took along the way. In order to accomplish all of these things I needed to do some careful planning and some research given that I am a rather amateur tinkerer when it comes to electronics. Look neat and professional at the end of the build.Have igniters that attached easily to different fuse types.Have igniters be easy to repair or swap out on the go.Be usable by adults and children alike.Have the ability to be controlled by a hand held remote.Be "smart" in that it knows if there is a malfunction with one of the electronic fuses.Fire up to 8 separate fireworks in one setup.Have a display that could be read from 20+ feet away.I wanted my fireworks controller to have the following features: PROCEED WITH CAUTION AND NEVER USE FIREWORKS OR OTHER EXPLOSIVES AS A WEAPON, IN THE FORM OF A WEAPON OR TO CAUSE BODILY INJURY OR HARM TO AN INDIVIDUAL OR PROPERTY*** JUST BECAUSE YOU CAN BUILD SOMETHING DOES NOT MEAN YOU KNOW HOW TO USE IT SAFELY. ![]() ***IF YOU ELECT TO BUILD SOMETHING SIMILAR OR DETONATE FIREWORKS OR OTHER EXPLOSIVES IN GENERAL BE SURE YOU DO SO IN ACCORDANCE WITH ALL SAFETY GUIDELINES AND LOCAL AND FEDERAL LAWS. But there is no way I am taking this thing apart for more pictures! Take a look through the Instructable, ask questions if you are curious and I hope you build some version of this for yourself!īe sure to vote for me in any open contests. I succeeded in some step and others I failed. ![]() I tried to take pictures along the way in order to make a clear Instructable. I wouldn't have felt comfortable sending my 3 year old up to a mortar tube with a punk, but I would let him launch them all day with this and its included safety features. The complete solution was a two part module that allows you, children, babies, etc to safely enjoy launching fireworks from a minimum distance of 50 feet. 4) I wanted a more graphical user interface that would be fun for my kids. 3) I wanted to have control over timing adjustments that a more analog solution wouldn't allow. 2) I wanted it to be "smart" or "aware" of what connections were present. 1) I need to work on my programming skills. My module is Arduino powered for a few reasons. Well, a few years passed and I finally decided it was time to build one of my own. His module was a great design ( found here) and I knew that I would one day have to build something similar because it combined two things that I really enjoy: Electronics and Blowing Stuff Up on Independence Day. A few years ago I came across a firework control module built by Instructables user: systemf92.
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